Leelanau Peninsula Michigan: The Complete Travel Guide (Things to Do, Wineries, Beaches & More)

Last Updated: April 2026

The Leelanau Peninsula — Michigan’s “pinky finger” — stretches 30 miles into Lake Michigan northwest of Traverse City and packs more into a small space than almost anywhere in the state: Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (voted “Most Beautiful Place in America” by Good Morning America viewers), more than 26 winery tasting rooms, one of the country’s last working commercial fishing villages, and a string of small towns along M22 that reward exploring slowly. I come back at least twice a year — once in summer and again in fall when the cherry orchards and maple forests turn and the crowds thin out.

This guide covers the full peninsula — the best towns from Empire to Northport, top hikes with trail lengths, the beaches most visitors miss, where to eat and drink, wineries worth a stop, and practical advice before you go. I’ve also included what most guides leave out: the National Park pass requirement for Sleeping Bear access, the best time to drive M22 for fall color, and a few places I genuinely love that aren’t on most lists.

The Leelanau Peninsula is roughly 30 miles long and 15 miles wide, with Lake Michigan on the west and Grand Traverse Bay on the east. M22 is the spine of the peninsula — every town, trailhead, and winery is on or just off it. Drive it south to north (Empire to Northport) and you’ll see the full range of what this place has to offer.

Where Is the Leelanau Peninsula?

The Leelanau Peninsula is located northwest of Traverse City in the northwest corner of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. It forms the “pinky finger” of the mitten shape, surrounded on three sides by water: Lake Michigan to the west, Lake Michigan’s Manitou Passage to the north, and Grand Traverse Bay to the east. The peninsula includes charming towns like Leland, Empire, Glen Arbor, Suttons Bay, Northport, and Omena — and is home to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and the Manitou Islands.

Towns to Explore on the Leelanau Peninsula

Empire, MI

Empire is the gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes and one of the strongest arguments for a full day on the Leelanau Peninsula. The Philip A. Hart Visitor Center (9922 Front St) is the place to get your National Park pass and ask rangers about current trail and beach conditions — don’t skip this if it’s your first visit. Empire Beach has been named one of the 21 most beautiful beaches in the world by National Geographic — and the dual lake access, with the warmer waters of South Bar Lake on one side and Lake Michigan on the other, makes it exceptional for families.

The Empire Bluff Trail (trailhead on Wilco Rd) is 1.5 miles round-trip and ends at one of the best Lake Michigan overlooks in the state. Short, doable for almost anyone, consistently stunning. After the hike, Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate (12020 S Leelanau Hwy) is the right move.

• 📍 Philip A. Hart Visitor Center — 9922 Front St, Empire, MI 49630
• 📍 Empire Bluff Trail — Wilco Rd, Empire, MI 49630
• 📍 Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate — 12020 S Leelanau Hwy, Empire, MI 49630

PRO TIP: Empire Beach has a parking lot separating South Bar Lake from Lake Michigan — kids can run between the warm, calm inland lake and the cooler, wavier Great Lake all day. One of the best family beach setups anywhere on the peninsula.

Glen Haven

Glen Haven sits just off M-109 inside Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and feels nothing like the rest of the peninsula. This small restored 19th-century port village has a General Store, a blacksmith demonstration, and the Cannery Boathouse Museum with vintage Great Lakes watercraft. Glen Haven Beach is wide, sandy, and far less crowded than Empire or Glen Arbor — it’s a worthwhile detour for anyone who wants a quieter afternoon on Sleeping Bear Bay.

• 📍 Glen Haven Beach — 8800 M-109, Glen Haven, MI 49636

Glen Arbor, MI

Glen Arbor is the social center of the Leelanau Peninsula — where you go after the hike, where you eat, where you shop. Cherry Republic (6026 S Lake St) is the hub: cherry products in every form, a cafe, a play area for kids, and a genuinely fun stop that earns its popularity. The restaurants in Glen Arbor range from Art’s Tavern (burger and a wait) to Blu (panoramic Sleeping Bear Bay views, upscale American menu).

My favorite morning in Glen Arbor: paddle on Glen Lake early — the water is calm before the wind picks up and the reflections are extraordinary — then spend the afternoon on foot through shops and the Alligator Hill Trail (Forest Haven Dr), which overlooks Glen Lake from above. In summer, the Beach Bard storytelling at the Leelanau School (1 Old Homestead Rd) is one of those genuinely local experiences worth planning around.

• 📍 Cherry Republic — 6026 S Lake St, Glen Arbor, MI 49636
• 📍 Glen Lake Access — Day Forest Rd or Glen Lake Picnic Area
• 📍 Alligator Hill Trail — Forest Haven Dr, Glen Arbor, MI 49636

Port Oneida

Port Oneida is the part of the Leelanau Peninsula most visitors drive past without stopping. This historic rural district inside Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has rolling meadows, weathered barns, an old schoolhouse, and scenic overlooks that feel completely different from the beach and dune landscape a few miles south. It’s worth a slow drive or a bike ride — the Port Oneida Heritage Center gives the history context, and the backroads are among the least crowded on the peninsula even in summer.

Leland — Fishtown, MI

Leland is postcard-perfect and genuinely substantive. Fishtown — the historic district of weathered fishing shanties along the Leland River — is still an active commercial fishing village, listed on the National Register of Historic Places and managed by the Fishtown Preservation Society. Carlson’s Fishery smokes Lake Michigan whitefish on-site; the Village Cheese Shanty is where I always grab a pretzel bread sandwich; Van’s Beach is a short walk away and one of the best spots to hunt for Leland Blue Rocks — the unique blue slag stones found nowhere else in Michigan.

• 📍 Fishtown — 203 W River St, Leland, MI 49654
• 📍 Village Cheese Shanty — 199 W River St, Leland, MI 49654
• 📍 Van’s Beach — End of Cedar St, Leland

Suttons Bay, MI

Suttons Bay is where I go to slow down. The walkable downtown has local shops, great restaurants, and Hop Lot Brewery — one of the best craft breweries in northern Michigan, with a large outdoor space and excellent food. This is also the best town on the peninsula for food-focused stops beyond the obvious: 9 Bean Rows (just west of town) is a working farm with a wood-fired bakery and cafe serving seasonal produce, fresh bread, and pizza from their own fields; Leelanau Cheese (on M-22 heading north) has been making award-winning cheese here for 25+ years and visitors can watch the cheesemaking process through a window in the shop. Martha’s Leelanau Table is the best sit-down dinner in town.

The Leelanau Trail (TART) runs 17 miles from Suttons Bay and is one of the best bike trails in northern Michigan — easy, scenic, and paved.

• 📍 Suttons Bay Ciders — 10530 E Hilltop Rd, Suttons Bay, MI 49682
• 📍 Martha’s Leelanau Table — 413 N St Joseph St, Suttons Bay, MI 49682
• 📍 Bahle Park — 505 N Lincoln St, Suttons Bay, MI 49682 (great morning light on the bay)
• 📍 TART/Leelanau Trail — Trailhead: 601 N St Joseph St, Suttons Bay
• 📍 Eyaawing Museum — 2605 N West Bay Shore Dr, Suttons Bay, MI 49682

Omena

Omena is tiny, beautiful, and easy to underestimate. Organic farms and stunning Grand Traverse Bay views line the road, and Leelanau Cellars (5019 N West Bay Shore Dr) sits directly on the bay shore — one of the most scenic winery settings on the entire peninsula. Tandem Ciders (2055 N Setterbo Rd) is nearby and one of the best hard cider operations in Michigan. It’s a quick stop, but the combination of cider, wine, and bay views makes it one of the best afternoon additions to an M22 drive.

Northport, MI

Northport sits at the northern tip of the peninsula and feels genuinely like a well-kept secret even in peak summer. The Grand Traverse Lighthouse inside Leelanau State Park is the anchor — climb the tower, see the keeper’s cottage decorated to reflect life in the 1920s and 1930s, and take in the Lake Michigan views from the top. Christmas Cove Beach (1795 N Christmas Cove Rd) is beautiful and good for rock hunting. The state park also has rustic camping sites.

• 📍 Leelanau State Park — 15310 N Lighthouse Point Rd, Northport, MI 49670
• 📍 Grand Traverse Lighthouse — inside Leelanau State Park
• 📍 Christmas Cove Beach — 1795 N Christmas Cove Rd, Northport

Best Hikes on the Leelanau Peninsula

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has 13 trails totaling more than 100 miles of hiking — plus the paved Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail for biking and walking. A National Park pass is required at all trailheads within the lakeshore ($80/year or $35/week). Here are the trails most worth your time:

• Empire Bluff Trail — 1.5 miles round-trip. Best Lake Michigan overlook on the peninsula. Doable for most ability levels. Trailhead: Wilco Rd, Empire.
• Pyramid Point Trail — 2.7 miles round-trip. Dramatic views of North and South Manitou Islands. One of my favorite hikes in Michigan, in every season.
• Sleeping Bear Point Trail — 2.8 miles round-trip. Sand dunes and forest combination near Glen Haven. Great loop with Manitou Island views at the overlook.
• Alligator Hill Trail — 3.6-mile loop. Overlooks Glen Lake from above. Harder than it looks, completely worth it.
• Good Harbor Bay Trail — 2.8 miles round-trip. Flat, forested, quiet. A good option for families or when you want something easier after a big dune day.
• Clay Cliffs Natural Area — Scenic M22 overlook just north of Leland. Short walk to unique clay bluff formations above Lake Michigan.

Best Beaches on the Leelanau Peninsula

The Leelanau Peninsula has some of the best Lake Michigan beaches in Michigan — clear water, soft sand, and dramatic dune backdrops. Several of the best beaches are inside Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and require a park pass for access. A note on rock collecting: Michigan allows up to 25 pounds per year, but collecting inside National Lakeshore boundaries is prohibited.

• Empire Beach — National Geographic named this one of the 21 most beautiful beaches in the world. Dual lake access: South Bar Lake (warm, calm) and Lake Michigan (cooler, waves). Perfect for families.
• Good Harbor Bay Beach — Wide, sandy, and quieter than Empire. Good Harbor Trail runs along the water. One of the best beaches for a long, uncrowded walk.
• Esch Beach — Off Esch Rd south of Empire. Locals’ choice. Less signage means fewer crowds. Requires a short walk from the parking area.
• Glen Haven Beach — 8800 M-109, Glen Haven. Wide and sandy on Sleeping Bear Bay. Less visited than the Lake Michigan beaches and worth it for the historic village backdrop.
• Van’s Beach, Leland — Walking distance from downtown Leland and Fishtown. Best spot on the peninsula for hunting Leland Blue Rocks — the unique blue slag stones from the 1800s iron industry.
• Christmas Cove, Northport — Beautiful and great for rock hunting. Quieter than almost any other beach on the peninsula.

Wineries and U-Pick Farms

The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail has more than 26 tasting rooms — more than most visitors realize — spread across three trail loops. The peninsula’s cool climate produces excellent Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. My approach: pick 3–4 wineries rather than trying to hit everything. Here are the ones most worth the stop:

• Black Star Farms — 10844 E Revold Rd, Suttons Bay. Award-winning wines, an inn, a distillery, and a creamery on the same property. One of the most complete winery experiences in Michigan.
• Mawby Sparkling Wines — 4519 Elm Valley Rd, Suttons Bay. All sparkling, all the time. One of Michigan’s best sparkling wine producers.
• Leelanau Cellars — 5019 N West Bay Shore Dr, Omena. On Grand Traverse Bay — one of the most scenic settings of any winery on the peninsula.
• Blustone Vineyards — 780 N Sylt Rd, Lake Leelanau. Excellent views and a relaxed tasting room atmosphere.
• Tandem Ciders — 2055 N Setterbo Rd, Suttons Bay. The best hard cider operation in the area. Worth a stop even for non-cider drinkers.

For U-pick cherries: Cherry Republic (6026 S Lake St, Glen Arbor) and Bardenhagen Farms (7990 E Horn Rd, Suttons Bay) are both reliable options during cherry season (late June–July).

Camping Near Sleeping Bear Dunes

Three of the best camping options on the peninsula are inside or adjacent to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. All require advance reservations, especially in summer:

• Platte River Campground — 5685 Lake Michigan Rd, Honor, MI 49640. The largest campground in the National Lakeshore. Close to the Platte River for kayaking and tubing.
• DH Day Campground — 8010 W Harbor Hwy, Glen Arbor, MI 49636. Right near Glen Haven with Sleeping Bear Bay access. Books out months in advance in summer.
• Leelanau State Park Campground — 15310 N Lighthouse Point Rd, Northport. Rustic sites near the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. The most peaceful and least crowded camping on the peninsula.

More Things to Do on the Leelanau Peninsula

• Bike the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail — Paved, mostly flat, runs through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. One of the best rail-trail bike experiences in Michigan.
• Ice Cream Sail with Inland Seas — 100 Dame St, Suttons Bay. A schooner day sail that ends with ice cream. Perfect for families and genuinely fun for adults.
• Leelanau Conservancy Hikes — leelanauconservancy.org — the conservancy manages dozens of natural areas across the peninsula with free public access. Good Harbor Bay Trail is one of their best.
• Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive — 7.5-mile paved loop inside Sleeping Bear Dunes, 12 stops including the iconic Lake Michigan Overlook. Park pass required.

Travel Tips Before You Go

• Best time to visit: June–October. Summer for beaches and full town activity; fall (late September–October) for color, harvest, and fewer crowds. Fall is genuinely spectacular on M22.
• National Park pass: Required for Sleeping Bear Dunes trailheads, beaches, and scenic drives. America the Beautiful annual pass ($80) covers all national park sites. Weekly pass: $35. Get it at the Hart Visitor Center in Empire.
• Getting there: Fly into Traverse City (TVC) or drive M22 from Traverse City. M22 is the scenic highway that connects every town on the peninsula.
• Parking: Most towns are walkable once you park — arrive early on summer weekends, especially in Empire and Glen Arbor.
• Where to stay: Book early. Glen Arbor, Suttons Bay, and Leland lodging fills weeks or months in advance in summer and during fall color season.

Leelanau Peninsula Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Leelanau Peninsula known for?

The Leelanau Peninsula is known for Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (voted “Most Beautiful Place in America” by Good Morning America viewers), more than 26 winery tasting rooms on the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail, historic Fishtown in Leland (one of Michigan’s last working commercial fishing villages), and the M22 scenic highway — one of the top scenic drives in the country.

How far is the Leelanau Peninsula from Traverse City?

Empire, the southern entry point of the peninsula, is about 25 minutes from Traverse City. Leland is approximately 35 minutes. The northern tip at Northport is about 50 minutes. The drive up M22 from any of these towns is itself one of the main attractions.

Do you need a National Park pass for Sleeping Bear Dunes?

Yes. Access to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore trailheads, beaches, and scenic drives (including Pierce Stocking Drive) requires a National Park pass. An America the Beautiful annual pass costs $80 and covers all national park sites for a year. A weekly vehicle pass for Sleeping Bear Dunes alone is $35. Get your pass at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire.

What is the best time of year to visit the Leelanau Peninsula?

June through October covers the full range of what the peninsula offers. Summer (June–August) is peak season — all towns open, beaches swimmable, wineries busy. Fall (late September through mid-October) is the most spectacular for color and is widely considered the best time to drive M22. Lodging is tighter in fall than many people expect — book ahead.

What are the best wineries on the Leelanau Peninsula?

Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay, Mawby Sparkling Wines, Leelanau Cellars in Omena (on Grand Traverse Bay), and Blustone Vineyards are among the most consistently recommended. The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail has more than 26 tasting rooms across three trail loops — pick 3–4 for a full afternoon rather than trying to hit everything.

Can you camp on the Leelanau Peninsula?

Yes. Platte River Campground and DH Day Campground are both inside Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and require advance reservations. Leelanau State Park Campground near the Grand Traverse Lighthouse offers rustic sites in a quieter setting. All three fill up months in advance for summer weekends.

What is the best hike on the Leelanau Peninsula?

Empire Bluff Trail (1.5 miles, best overlook on the peninsula) is the most accessible standout. For more challenge and reward, Pyramid Point (2.7 miles, Manitou Island views) and Alligator Hill Trail (3.6-mile loop overlooking Glen Lake) are both excellent. All three require a National Park pass.