M22 Michigan Scenic Drive: The Complete Guide (MAP + Best Stops)

Last Updated: October 2026

The M22 Michigan scenic drive runs 116 miles along the Lake Michigan shoreline from Manistee through the Leelanau Peninsula to Traverse City, and USA Today readers voted it the Best Scenic Autumn Drive in the USA. I’ve driven M22 more times than I can count, in every season, and it earns every word of that reputation. The dunes, the towns, the light off Lake Michigan in the late afternoon — there’s nothing else like it in the Midwest.

I covered this drive for FOX 17 a few years back and the segment producers wanted the “quick hits.” But M22 doesn’t reward quick. The people who get the most out of it are the ones who plan two days, not one — who stop at Pyramid Point to find their own secret beach, who pull off for a spontaneous wine tasting in Suttons Bay, who catch the Frankfort sunset they didn’t expect to care about. This guide covers the route, the best stops by county, where to stay, when to come for fall color, and the practical details most guides skip, including the Sleeping Bear Dunes pass rules that catch a lot of first-timers off guard.

M22 is part of the Lake Michigan Circle Tour, and it’s officially two recognized byways: the Leelanau Scenic Heritage Route (Benzie-Leelanau county line to Traverse City, designated 2002) and the southern M-22 Pure Michigan Byway (Manistee to the county line, designated 2016). In practice, you drive them as one continuous route. The map below marks every stop covered here, so you can plan before you leave home — lodging fills fast in summer and fall, and the two-day version of this drive depends on where you sleep. If you’re coming up for color, check my live Michigan fall color report first; it recalculates daily for Traverse City and Manistee, which bracket this route.

Dog-Friendly and Accessible M22

Dogs do fine on M22 as long as you know the Sleeping Bear rules before you get there. The National Park Service allows leashed pets on the Empire Bluff Trail, the Pyramid Point Trail, the Cottonwood Trail off Pierce Stocking, and on the scenic drive itself. Dogs are never allowed on the face of the Dune Climb, at North Bar Lake, or on the Maritime Museum grounds, and from April 15 to August 15 the beaches south of Esch Road and around Glen Haven close to dogs for nesting piping plovers. Outside the park, the beaches at Frankfort and Elberta and the trails at Leelanau State Park are the easy wins. Check the Sleeping Bear pets page before a summer trip, since the beach boundaries shift year to year.

For wheelchair users and anyone who avoids loose sand, Pierce Stocking is the one stop to plan around. Stop 3, the Dune Overlook, has a ramped two-level deck with benches and is the panoramic view I’d send you to. Stops 9 and 10 require a steep asphalt path and then loose sand, and the park lists both as not accessible. The Frankfort beachfront and the Manistee Riverwalk are both paved and flat.

Map of M22 Michigan Scenic Drive

Use this interactive map to plan your route before you leave home. Every major stop, viewpoint, and town on M22 is marked. Click any pin for details.

M22 Michigan: Manistee County (Southern Start)

M22 begins just north of Manistee off US-31, and Manistee itself is worth at least a half-hour stop before the drive starts in earnest. The historic downtown runs along the Manistee Riverwalk — 1.5 miles of restored Victorian-era brick buildings, galleries, boutiques, and the landmarked Ramsdell Theater. Lighthouse Park and the North Pierhead Lighthouse sit at the Lake Michigan entry to the Manistee River, and the adjacent beach is a strong sunrise spot before you hit the road.

For lodging in Manistee, the Manistee Inn and Marina on the Riverwalk is the most convenient option — walking distance to the beach and every shop and restaurant downtown.

• 🏨 Manistee Inn and Marina — 378 River Street, Manistee, MI 49660. On the Riverwalk, walk to beach and downtown.

See our full Guide to Manistee for everything worth stopping for in the area.

Onekama — The Two-Lake Town

Just north of Manistee is Onekama, called the “Two-Lake Town” because it sits between Portage Lake and Lake Michigan. The 1871 channel connecting Portage Lake to Lake Michigan is still the town’s defining feature — boats move through it constantly in summer, and the access to both lake systems makes this a popular spot for swimming and boating. Portage Point Woods Preserve has easy walking trails worth a quick stop.

If you want to break the drive into two days, Portage Point Resort is one of the most charming lodging options on M22 — an old-timey resort inn with a grand porch and a vibe similar to the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island.

Arcadia and Inspiration Point

Before leaving Manistee County, pull off at Arcadia and the Arcadia Dunes. Inspiration Point is one of the best viewpoints on the entire 116-mile drive — a sweeping Lake Michigan overlook from the top of the dunes with almost no infrastructure, just you and the view. Plan 20–30 minutes here minimum. Photography in any direction is effortless. If you play golf, Arcadia Bluffs is one of the most acclaimed courses in the state and sits right here.

M22 Michigan: Benzie County

Crossing into Benzie County, M22 passes between Lower Herring Lake and Upper Herring Lake — two of the prettiest inland lakes visible directly from the road. Pull off at Upper Herring Lake Nature Preserve for a short walk before continuing north to Green Point Dunes for more Lake Michigan views.

Elberta and the Bluffs

The town of Elberta sits on the Betsie Bay waterfront directly across from Frankfort, and the Elberta Bluffs provide an elevated vantage point over the lake. Elberta Beach is quieter than Frankfort and a good alternative during peak summer weekends when Frankfort fills up. The town’s small downtown has a few gift shops worth a quick browse.

Frankfort, MI

Frankfort is one of my favorite towns on M22 — and I’ve been coming here long enough to have watched it get discovered. The beach earns that reputation for good reason: the Frankfort sunset over Lake Michigan is one of the best in the state, and I’d put it against anything on the entire shoreline. Get there an hour before sunset and claim your spot. Downtown has good boutiques and cafes, and Stormcloud Brewing is one of the better craft breweries in northwest Michigan.

Just past Frankfort, M22 curves around Crystal Lake — one of Michigan’s most beautiful inland lakes — and past Point Betsie Lighthouse, a working lighthouse open for tours in summer and a prime spot for rock hunting and Petoskey Stones on the beach below.

Pro tip: Just past Frankfort, Riverside Canoe Trips offers canoe, kayak, and tube trips down the Platte River. The river meets Lake Michigan at Platte Point — a spectacular scene that most M22 drivers miss entirely because it requires a short detour. Riverside also sells the Sleeping Bear park pass, so it’s a convenient place to grab one before you hit the dunes.

Frankfort lodging:

• 🏨 Hotel Frankfort — 231 Main Street, Frankfort, MI 49635. One-minute walk to the beach. Historic building, mix of rooms and suites with balconies. Next to Stormcloud Brewing.
• 🏨 Chimney Corners Resort — 1602 Crystal Drive, Frankfort, MI 49635. On Crystal Lake. Restaurant, bar, tennis courts. Mix of rooms, cottages, and apartments with full kitchens.

M22 Michigan: Sleeping Bear Dunes and Leelanau County

Once you cross into Leelanau County, you’ve entered the heart of what makes M22 famous. Some of the best beaches on the Leelanau Peninsula are right off M-22. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore stretches across most of this section, and a park pass is required at trailheads, beaches, and scenic drives within the lakeshore boundary.

Old Indian Trail — Your Introduction to the Lakeshore

Before you get to Empire, pull in for the Old Indian Trail — a 2.5-mile loop through a towering beech and maple forest that opens to sweeping Lake Michigan views at the top. It’s the best introductory hike on M22 — not too strenuous, consistently rewarding, and almost never as crowded as the Dune Climb.

Empire, MI

Empire is where M22 reaches full stride. The Empire Bluff Trail is a 1.5-mile out-and-back that ends at a stunning Lake Michigan overlook — clear water, sand dunes dropping to the shore, and a view that catches you off guard even when you know it’s coming. Downtown Empire is small but charming, with enough shops to stretch your legs before continuing north. Empire’s village beach sits outside the park boundary, so it’s a free Lake Michigan swim if you’d rather skip the pass for the afternoon.

Empire lodging:

• 🏨 M22 Inn Empire — 8720 South Dorsey Road, Empire, MI 49630. Clean, comfortable, and well placed for both the dunes and downtown.
• 🏨 Empire Lakeshore Inn — 11626 Sunset Drive, Empire, MI 49630. Eight-minute walk to Empire Beach. Clean and cozy.

Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive

Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive is the most famous detour on M22 — a 7.4-mile paved loop through hardwood forest with 12 stops including the Lake Michigan Overlook, Glen Lake views, and North Bar Lake. Plan at least 90 minutes here. Watch for the old Maple Lane Resort sign heading north on M22 — that’s your turn. The drive opens to cars from late May until late October, then becomes a ski and snowshoe trail for the winter. This is the shot most people have on their Michigan vision board; it earns it.

Pro tip: The wooden viewing platform at Stop #9, the Lake Michigan Overlook, was removed in spring 2025 after nearly 40 years — the bluff has been eroding eastward and the structure finally failed. The 450-foot view is unchanged, but there’s no railing now, so stay back from the edge. If you want the fully accessible panoramic shot, Stop #3 (the Dune Overlook) has a ramped two-level deck and is where I now send people. Full details, all 12 stops, and dog and ADA notes are in our complete Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive guide.

Glen Arbor and Glen Haven

Glen Arbor is the social center of the M22 experience — Cherry Republic, Art’s Tavern (home of Art’s Burger, always a wait, always worth it), boutiques, and the M22 store where you can pick up the logo gear that’s become shorthand for northwest Michigan. The Crystal River runs through here from Glen Lake to Lake Michigan — a peaceful float that’s one of the most underrated activities on the whole route.

Just down the road is historic Glen Haven, a restored port village with a stunning beach on Sleeping Bear Bay. The 2.5-mile Sleeping Bear Point Trail from here gives you views of the Manitou Islands on a clear day.

And then there’s Pyramid Point — my first hike in Michigan, and one I’ve done in every season since. I actually have a secret beach saved to my Maps app from one of those hikes that I’ve never seen more than about ten people at once. I’m not going to give it away here, but Pyramid Point will get you close if you explore on foot past the obvious overlook.

Pro tip: Glen Arbor restaurants fill up fast in summer, especially Art’s Tavern and Blu, which runs on reservations and opens at 5 p.m. Use our Guide to the Best Places to Eat in Glen Arbor to plan ahead — walk-in waits can be 45 minutes on a summer Saturday evening.

Glen Arbor lodging:

• 🏨 Sylvan Inn Bed and Breakfast — 6680 W. Western Ave., Glen Arbor, MI 49636. Peaceful, clean, wide front porch. Books fast in summer.

M22 Michigan: The Leelanau Peninsula

The northern half of M22 curves around the Leelanau Peninsula — Michigan’s ring finger — and this is where the drive becomes something more than scenic overlooks. The Leelanau Peninsula has more than 18 wineries, most of them in small tasting rooms that feel nothing like a tourist attraction. Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay and Chateau Fontaine in Lake Leelanau are two of the best, and both are worth a stop even if you’re not a dedicated wine traveler. One quirk worth knowing: M-22 crosses the 45th parallel — halfway between the equator and the North Pole — twice as it wraps the peninsula.

Leland — Fishtown, MI

Leland — known as “Fishtown” — sits where the Leland River meets Lake Michigan, and the collection of weathered fishing shanties along the waterway is a Michigan landmark. Fishtown is a working fishing community, not a replica — smoked fish, fresh catch, and a handful of art galleries and boutiques alongside the working docks. The Clay Cliffs Natural Area just north of town is one of the more unusual landscapes on M22, worth a short hike.

Northport and the Tip of the Peninsula

M22 officially turns south near Northport, but it’s worth a short detour to the very tip of the peninsula and Leelanau State Park, where the Grand Traverse Lighthouse stands at the northernmost point. This section of the drive is the quietest and least touristed — it feels like a different Michigan from the Sleeping Bear crowds, and that contrast is part of why M22 rewards the full route over just hitting the highlights. Leelanau State Park takes the Michigan Recreation Passport, not the national park pass: $15 a year for Michigan plates (cheapest when you renew your registration), or $12 a day for out-of-state vehicles.

Suttons Bay and the Final Stretch

The last leg of M22 follows Grand Traverse Bay through Omena and Peshawbestown before reaching Suttons Bay. Hop Lot Brewery in Suttons Bay is one of Michigan’s best craft breweries — a large, laid-back outdoor space with excellent beer and food. It’s the natural endpoint before Traverse City, and it fills up on summer afternoons for good reason. The surrounding wineries on this stretch of the peninsula are some of the Leelanau’s best.

The End of the Line: Traverse City

M22 ends in Traverse City — the cherry capital of the world, home to the National Cherry Festival each July, and one of the most complete small cities in Michigan for food, lodging, and things to do. Front Street is where you pick up your M22 gear — the brand has become a symbol of northwest Michigan — and the M22 store here is the official merchandise home. Our guide to Traverse City covers everything else the city offers.

When to Drive M22: Seasonal Guide

M22 is worth driving in every season — each one offers something the others don’t.

Fall (September–October) — The Peak Season

Fall is M22’s most famous season — and it earned that USA Today Best Scenic Autumn Drive title for a reason. Color starts in the inland hardwoods — the Benzie hills, the Old Indian Trail forest, the maples behind Glen Arbor — in late September, while the lakeshore and the tip of the peninsula hold green longer because the big water keeps them warmer. Peak for the Leelanau and Benzie stretches usually lands around October 14–21, with the Manistee end following a few days behind. Crowds are real during fall color weekends — book lodging months in advance and plan to drive on weekdays if possible. The combination of fall foliage, empty beaches, and winery harvest season makes this one of the best autumn drives in the country.

For the current week, my Michigan Peak Fall Colors report models color progress for Traverse City and Manistee every day from overnight lows, so you can see whether the route is building, peaking, or past it before you commit a weekend. The Guide to Fall in Traverse City covers the city end of the drive, and the Tunnel of Trees is the natural companion drive if you’re making a long weekend of it — it’s one of the 6 spots in my Northern Michigan fall road trip.

Summer (June–August) — Beach Season

Summer is the busiest season and the most expensive for lodging, but it’s also when M22 is at its most alive — the towns are fully open, the water is swimmable, and sunset on the Frankfort or Empire beach is one of the better experiences in Michigan. Book lodging 3–4 months in advance for summer weekends. Weekdays are meaningfully quieter and easier to navigate.

Spring and Winter — The Hidden Seasons

Spring on M22 means wildflowers, budding forests, and almost no one else on the road. Many seasonal businesses don’t open until Memorial Day, so check ahead. Winter is the quietest of all — snow-covered dunes, frozen shoreline, and a handful of towns still operating. Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and ice fishing bring a dedicated winter crowd, and the lack of summer traffic means you can actually stop anywhere you want without planning. Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive closes to cars for the winter and opens to skiers and snowshoers from December 1 through March 31. I’ll be honest — I drove M22 alone on a January morning once and it was as good as any summer trip I’ve done. Just bring actual winter gear.

M22 Michigan Frequently Asked Questions

Where does M22 Michigan start and end?

M22 starts just north of Manistee off US-31 and follows the Lake Michigan shoreline north through Benzie and Leelanau counties, around the Leelanau Peninsula, and ends in Traverse City. The total length is 116 miles.

How long does it take to drive M22 Michigan?

Without stops, M22 takes approximately 3 hours to drive straight through. With stops at the major viewpoints and towns, plan a full day (8–10 hours). For the best experience — wineries, hikes, a proper sunset, and dinner — plan two days and stay overnight somewhere along the route.

Is there a fee to drive M22?

There are no tolls on M22, and the highway itself is free to drive. However, access to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore trailheads, scenic drives (including Pierce Stocking), and beaches within the lakeshore boundary requires a park pass. A 7-day vehicle pass is $25, a Sleeping Bear annual pass is $45, and the America the Beautiful annual pass ($80) covers all national park sites for a year. The park is cashless — bring a card or buy a digital pass on Recreation.gov.

Can I see M22 without paying a park fee?

Yes. The M22 highway and every town on it are free. You only need a Sleeping Bear pass for that park’s trailheads, beaches, and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. Free Lake Michigan beaches outside the fee boundary include Frankfort Beach, Elberta Beach, Empire’s village beach, and the Manistee pier beaches — so you can experience the shoreline without a pass if you plan around the park sections.

What is the best time of year to drive M22?

Fall (mid-September through mid-October) for the color tours — M22 was voted Best Scenic Autumn Drive in the USA by USA Today readers. Summer (June–August) for swimming, open towns, and sunsets. Spring for solitude and wildflowers. Winter for snow-covered dunes and quiet roads. There is no bad season.

When does fall color peak on M22 Michigan?

Peak fall color on the Leelanau and Benzie stretches of M22 usually lands around October 14–21, with the Manistee end a few days later. The inland hardwoods turn first; the lakeshore and the tip of the peninsula hold green longest because Lake Michigan keeps them warmer. My Michigan Peak Fall Colors report recalculates daily for Traverse City and Manistee if you want the current week’s reading.

What are the best towns to stop in on M22 Michigan?

The most essential stops are Frankfort (sunsets, Point Betsie Lighthouse), Empire (Empire Bluff Trail, Sleeping Bear Dunes access), Glen Arbor (restaurants, Crystal River, M22 store), Leland/Fishtown (working fishing waterfront), and Suttons Bay (Hop Lot Brewery, Leelanau wineries). For the full peninsula experience, add Northport and the Grand Traverse Lighthouse detour.

Are there wineries on M22 Michigan?

Yes — the Leelanau Peninsula has more than 18 wineries, most of them along the northern half of M22. Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay and Chateau Fontaine in Lake Leelanau are two of the most acclaimed. The peninsula is also home to numerous tasting rooms, orchards, and farm markets that operate through the fall harvest season.

What are the best hikes on M22?

The best hikes directly on or accessible from M22 are the Empire Bluff Trail (1.5 miles, spectacular Lake Michigan overlook), Old Indian Trail (2.5-mile loop, beech-maple forest), Pyramid Point (views of Manitou Islands), Sleeping Bear Point Trail (2.5 miles from Glen Haven, Manitou Island views), and the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive (7.4-mile paved loop, 12 stops, requires park pass).

Can I bring my dog on M22?

Yes, though rules vary by stop. Leashed dogs are welcome in the M22 towns, at Frankfort and Elberta beaches (Elberta is most relaxed off-season), and on Leelanau State Park trails. Inside Sleeping Bear Dunes, the National Park Service allows leashed dogs on the Empire Bluff, Pyramid Point, and Cottonwood trails and on Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, but never on the face of the Dune Climb or at North Bar Lake, and several beaches close to dogs from April 15 to August 15 for nesting piping plovers. Check the park’s pets page before you go, since the beach boundaries change.

Is M22 Michigan good in winter?

Yes — winter on M22 is beautiful and far less traveled. Snow-covered dunes, frozen Lake Michigan shoreline, and quiet towns make for a completely different experience. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are popular in Sleeping Bear Dunes, and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive opens to skiers from December 1 through March 31 when it’s closed to cars. Many restaurants and shops close or reduce hours; call ahead before visiting specific stops.

Where should I stay along M22 Michigan?

The best lodging bases on M22 are Frankfort (Hotel Frankfort, Chimney Corners), Empire (M22 Inn, Empire Lakeshore Inn), Glen Arbor (Sylvan Inn), and Manistee (Manistee Inn and Marina) at the southern end. Traverse City at the northern end has the widest selection of hotels, restaurants, and services. Book 3–4 months ahead for summer weekends; fall color weekends sell out even earlier.

Can I drive M22 in one day?

You can drive M22 in one day if you limit yourself to 4–5 stops and don’t linger. Most people who try to do the full route in one day wish they had two. The sweet spot for a single-day drive is to start in Manistee by 9am, hit Inspiration Point, Frankfort, Pierce Stocking Drive, Empire Bluff Trail, Glen Arbor for lunch, Leland/Fishtown, and Suttons Bay for dinner or a brewery stop, arriving in Traverse City by early evening.

If this is your first time up here, drive it south to north so the big reveal — Pierce Stocking, Glen Arbor, the peninsula — comes after you’ve warmed up on Frankfort. And if you only have one weekend this fall, watch the color report, then pick the weekend when Traverse City reads “Approaching peak.” That’s the one. When you’re back, the M-119 Tunnel of Trees drive is waiting an hour north.